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Norden 901 Issue - Engine cutting out whilst riding along at 50mph! Help!

30K views 104 replies 39 participants last post by  boolean  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi Norden Forum Folks, I love my new Norden, but.....

Has anybody had this mildly terrifying issue or something similar. I have owned it for 4 months and have done about 900 miles on it.

I was riding along at artound 50mph down a long wet hill coming into a corner, I changed down and backed off the throttle using the engine breaking. Then suddenly the back wheel stopped and skidded round very quickly, fortunately I was covering the clutch (even with a quickshifter old habits right?), I managed to pull it in quickly and the back wheel came into line again. I couldn,t hear the engine running, I looked down at the dash, it was all active, no warning lights, no big yellow square with an engine management or fault code. Just no revs, the engine had stopped suddenly. I coasted into a small clearing by the road and stopped. I pressed the starter button and it fired up immediately. My riding companion pulled up and asked what had happened as she saw the whole thing. I have no idea.

I took it to the excellent local Norden/KTM dealer, they couldn't find anything. No fault codes, took it for a test ride, no issues. I was very unnerved by the incident, so a few days later I took it out again on very dry roads, going only on mainly straight A roads, coming through a small town towards a roundabout, I changed down and backed off the throttle at around 25mph, it happened again. As it was dry it simply coasted to a stop, rather than causing the backwheel to skid. I tried pulling the clutch in and letting it out as it did to see if it would bump start, it didn't. I hit the starter and it came to life immediately.

I instantly went to the dealer and within 15 minutes they had plugged it in, saw no errors or faults again.

Frankly I am at a loss. Has anybody had anything similar?
 
#37 · (Edited)
I bought my Norden 901 expedition in April 23, and I now have 850 km on the bike.
I've experienced this issue twice.
First time was the first week. It had about 200km, and the issue appeared when I dropped the throttle and held the cluth out of a corner. Low speed. Pulled to the side, and the motor started again with no problem.

Second time today, about 850 km, and issue appeared when I clutched and dropped the throttle on the way into a roundabout. Low speed. I turned on the engine again while still in motion, and it started with no problem. Engine had been running for about 2 hours.

The foot killswitch might be a possible root cause, but Im not sure, then it must be extremely sensistive? I am fairly certain it is caused by a false positive cut engine electrical signal.

I have the stock exhaust.
I also have the heated grips. It that a common denominator? Does anyone without heated grips experience this issue?

Any updates from you other guys?

I'm having the 1000km service next week, and ill let them know about the issue.
 
#38 · (Edited)
@Kybertronder Sorry to hear that you have the same issue as me. I tried contacting Husqvana directly but they were very dismissive of my concerns. The dealer was great but couldn’t find any issue. Fearing for my safety I had to do something. It was his ex-demo bike so, I sold it back to him and traded it in for a brand new 2023 model. I contacted Husqvana about the bike and said they should investigate the issues on the bike. But they said as I was now no longer the legal owner the case was now closed. Personally I find that completely unacceptable. So far my new bike has had no issues, first service is now due. Let’s see what happens. Hope you get to the bottom of it, or resolve it somehow. If anything happens again on my new bike, here is a Ducati Desert X in my future. I hope not, because I prefer the Norden. Love it. Ride Safe.
 
#45 ·
Hi @nickkont, I went back and forward with the dealership, they couldn’t find an issue. They hooked it up to Husqvana and still nothing. I rode it again nervously and it happened again. So I sent it back to the dealer, again nothing. There is no memory in the ECU apparently so you cannot back track and see what happened. I contacted Husqvana repeatedly. In the end I refused to take he bike back, and negotiated with the dealer to buy the next bike into the showroom at a good deal, and now have a brand new 2023 model. So far no issues but I have only done 1k miles. I contacted Husqvana directly and said I could not continue riding the original bike as I feared for my safety. They said as I was no longer the legal owner of the bike it was not my responsibility anymore. They said that was it, case closed! Frankly I was amazed at the dismissive attitude and corporate shoulder shrugging! Good luck with your bike, ride safe.
 
#46 ·
Many thanks for the reply. I discussed this with an authorized service and thank god there is another bike with the same issue (890) and he has already opened a ticket. He told me to contact him again end of next week if there is a reply from KTM/Husqvarna . He believes it’s an ecu issue because these bikes run lean because of all these regulations.. He also suggested a temporal fix until we have an answer.. to add a lambda sensor eliminator which costs 40-50 euros and bike will run much richer. I let know if there is any progress.
 
#52 ·
I skipped the smart moto o2 eliminator and bought rapid bike easy. I asked the mechanic if this will do the job and told me yes.
I haven’t installed it yet but I will keep you updated. I will do it next week.
Mechanic also told me that this happens only when I pull the clutch because there is a sensor, nothing to do with downshifting . Can’t keep rpms and it’s because of the lambda sensor. That’s why he suggested o2 eliminator or rapid bike easy module.
I’ll tell him about the sensor in the clutch but need more info KTM Peter :)
We have also opened 2 tickets with Ktm (another bike too) and waiting for their response.
 
#53 · (Edited)
Update: today I found some time and installed rapid bike easy module.
It was quite easy, especially if you watch Rottweiler’s video “remove fuel tank Norden 901”.
First impression was that the bike works better at low rpm’s. More vivid throttle reaction at low rpm’s. When pulling the clutch , seems to work better. I will start doing 80-100km per day and I will report at 1000 if problem solved.
Image
 
#55 ·
Image




I followed that video

It is looking complicated but in reallity is easy and straightforward. I am not a mechanic or had prior experience with motorbikes. Just follow this steps to remove the tank.
After that you can’t go wrong with the connectors. They can only fit in specific one’s .

See attached the recommended settings sent by them.

if you want to make the air fuel ratio richer just set the second dialer to +3 , if you want the default state of the bike +0.

Recommended setting is second dialer to +2 richer.

Bike works much better at low’s and in general in closed loop area/state. You can feel the difference and I believe is a good investment anyway.
With RBE it happened (stalled once) at 500km and changed the setting to +3 so I have another 500 km now without any problem.

I will update the post when I will talk with the mechanic (he opened a ticket with Ktm months ago)
 
#56 ·
Update. Stalls at low revs when pulling clutch didn’t disappear with rapid bike easy.
I contacted another authorized service and asked me to bring the bike to check everything .. (valves, sparks, fuel pump, fuel tank, clutch sensors etc)
This is going to take up to 1 month..
Other guys from ktm forums , the majority said that it might be a faulty clutch switch.
I am going to change that first and adjust the lever as it seems to be very friddle.
If this doesn’t fix the problem I will follow service directions and miss my bike for a quite long period.
in any case I won’t leave it as it is. Still in guarantee and not accepting the issue.
 
#57 ·
Hello, as stupid as it sounds, sometiemes de SIDE STAND gets down a little bit on a bump and cuts the engine OFF. You don't even notice because when you look down it has already gone back up.

It hapened to me many times offroad. Now I have a strap to hold it up while riding to avoid this (similar to enduro bikes).

I hope this helps. Best regards
 
#61 ·
I sent the bike to an authorized technician with pretty good reviews. He checked everything and did a reset to ecu and followed exact manufacturer’s instructions. (I will ask exactly what he did)
He said is working fine . He also drove it a lot to check.
I will get it back this week and I ll keep you noted if problem solved.
 
#63 ·
Update: I did went as I mentioned in a good authorised technician. He followed exact manufacturer's guideline including ECU reset/ update, sensors check etc.
Took it back.. bike sounds bassier and better..
It stalled again after 50-60 kms, he told me to do the 15 min idle reset and it doesn't matter if it happened once..
And now, after 1000km bike works good with no stalls. I think the best answer for these kind of problems is to find a good mechanic.
 
#64 ·
Update: I did went as I mentioned in a good authorised technician. He followed exact manufacturer's guideline including ECU reset/ update, sensors check etc. Took it back.. bike sounds bassier and better.. It stalled again after 50-60 kms, he told me to do the 15 min idle reset and it doesn't matter if it happened once.. And now, after 1000km bike works good with no stalls. I think the best answer for these kind of problems is to find a good mechanic.
What is the 15 min idle reset?
 
#67 ·
Talked with my authorized service guy and he told me that he did a full ecu reset . Then you need to leave it 15min (no less) idle when cold (no touching the throttle).
He told me that this happened because it had adapted wrong values when was first operated or something didn’t went good at initial run up. (Another dealer)

After this ecu and idle reset, works great, never occurred again. (1500+ kms)
Try it first before doing annything else.
 
#74 ·
Update: I went to the mechanic to reset the ECU but that was the first solution he tried, so I'm still waiting for the parts he asked for under warranty (fuel pump, injectors and fuel pipe). According to him, this set comes already assembled from the factory that supplies them, and he's already caught them with a lot of dirt on them, and once they're assembled in the engine and put into operation, the rest of the line gets dirty and this happens.

I'm going to wait for the warranty material to arrive and be assembled so that I can do a few kilometers and then report back here.
 
#75 ·
Update: I went to the mechanic to reset the ECU but that was the first solution he tried, so I'm still waiting for the parts he asked for under warranty (fuel pump, injectors and fuel pipe). According to him, this set comes already assembled from the factory that supplies them, and he's already caught them with a lot of dirt on them, and once they're assembled in the engine and put into operation, the rest of the line gets dirty and this happens.

I'm going to wait for the warranty material to arrive and be assembled so that I can do a few kilometers and then report back here.
Did you do the 15 min idle reset ?