I'm starting to think the downshift's the culprit here. I'm still getting used to this bike, not fully dialed in yet. Does anyone know if you can disable the auto-shifting feature? My old Ducati let me turn that off. If I could shut it off, maybe the issue would disappear. I'm leaning towards a problem with the shifting components themselves, rather than the ECU or fuel system.

 

the quickshifter? Yeah, it’s in the menus. Easy to turn it off.

 

Well, I had some similar symptoms on my bike (2024 901). After the KTM fiasco & my local shop folding up, I realized I'm kinda on my own in terms of support. I turned off the quick shift functionality & haven't had a problem since. I've been riding for years & never really used the quick shift as intended as my muscle memory always just shifts by using the clutch, throttle & shifter... The electronics on the bike are garbage (the bluetooth, quick shift, traction control...!!!). Well thanks for listening to my old man rant. Love the bike & ride it like I stole it, but I'm used to more of an analog experience.

 

Hi, some information is running in Spain about this issue. It seems that it is something related with the” clausor” (were you put the key). There is quite a few number of units affected.
I’ll have mine changed under warranty, after checking the side stand, clutch leaver,… and hope that the problem will be fixed. It appeared in a Spanish YouTube blog as well.

 

Hi I don'have sleep control, but it happened to me when pressing the clutch for lowering the gear, no stress applied to the engine.

 

I have to ask. . . .
Were you riding in ADVENTURE mode? and if so, what was your slip assist set to?

I just finished 7 days of very technical off road riding in Baja, typically riding on slip control #3. No problems at all riding at very low rpm's, slipping the clutch in first and second gear through "trials" type technical stuff. On the steepest climbs through baby head fields, ruts and cactus I bumped the slip up to 5 and 6, upon which the bike stalled 3 times in a half hour. I dropped the slip back to 3, and had no further problems. I first thought I was losing my touch with the clutch, but later suspected the bike would/could stall at low rpm's if in a higher slip control number.

This is not scientific, but I'm logging it in the "things to be aware of" category, especially if in a No Fall zone.

 

Update: a month later, and now nearing the end of another Baja week, I can confirm that when riding technical sections at the bottom of 1st and 2nd gear…. A higher slip control like 5 or 7 requires a little higher rpm then just at idle. Ive since changed my typical riding selection to 2 instead of 3. The versatility of this bike is spectacular as is the quickshifter in the dirt.

 

Has anyone tried adjusting the throttle osition sensor? TPS was a problem on my 501 a tiny change made a big difference, my Norden has not experienced stalling or flameouts

 

It has hapenned to me twice in 4000km, both times when leaving the Highway. The only common factor is cold weather. The first time, 10 minutes after starting the engine, and second (today) after more than one hour of riding. For sure it is not about the side stand sensor, because it would give so much problems off-road, and I think is not related with some unwanted pressure in the shifting leaver, because I was riding with sport shoes, not boots... I don't have heated grips but always use cruise control in the highway. Hope someone have information from Husqvarna.

 

The key element is to pinpoint the various factors happening prior to the engine shut down.

1. It is intermittent.

Lots of intermittent problems are computer related.

Maybe an Integrated Circuit (IC) sending the wrong signal to the main computer.

Some IC have got a micro contact issue (welding, etc…) and they are sensitive to humidity, temperature, and vibrations.

1. It happens after a certain number of KMs (how many I don't know ?).

This might be related to the temperature, going back to point one above.

1. It always happens when moving from 5th to 4th gear.

I think that this is a significant key element which might lead to the LOGIC of the computer giving a signal to SHUT DOWN through an IC.

1. The problem happens on tar road as well as on dirt road.

If it happens on tar road it means that vibration is not necessarily a major factor.

1. To summarise the main factors that one could highlight are:

From 5th (fifth) to 4th (fourth) gear.

A few minutes after start (not too sure how many, maybe 30 minutes of less)

Implying that Engine Temperature might be one of the causes.

 

In my case I haven’t tried it yet as I’m still in break in period and dealership strongly recommended to not use cruise control while in break in. Only few kms left till first service.

 

I can understand that running the engine for a long period of time at the same RPM is not a great way to break in your engine. A couple of minutes just testing the cruise control will not be harmful in my opinion.

 

well the easy shift does cut out the ignition, for momentary time taken to move the gear shift, if you just rest your foot on the gear change and apply a little pressure but not enough to change gear then the engine will cut out or at least feel like it

 

Weird or coincidence I turned off easy shift and it hasn’t happened since. 🤷🏿‍♂️ I’ll wait for first service to be done and I’ll turn it back on.

 

In my case, I turned off the quick shifter & it fixed the problem. It's possible my foot lightly touched the shifter, but I don't think it did.

 

Well hopefully Local KTM dealer can test it on my Husky

 

KTM often has the following problem: clutch switch sensor !

 

Yes, it is a known issue. I already replied to OP to have them check the clutch sensor.
Does the cruise control work?

 

It definitely happened when clutch was pulled in,,,,,, sensor ???

 

I also had this with my new Norden on the first drive and almost crashed in a traffic circle. I also had repeated error messages from the display (engine control and yellow warning light).
What I noticed is that the electrical system is sensitive to voltage fluctuations.
My suggested solutions (and I haven't had any error messages or an engine going out for 2 years):

• a better battery (the error messages immediately appear on the display if there are voltage fluctuations in the on-board power supply). i installed a powerful lithium-ion battery.
• I only fill up with 98 to 100 octane fuels, so there is no more single-cylinder running at the start and no more error messages.
• if these simple measures do not help, then there is another technical problem.

 

Hi I got a ‘24 norden two weeks ago and it did it 4 times already it quite annoying!! My only problem is the Husqvarna dealership is 500km away, but there’s a local ktm dealership here I wonder if they can help me with that stalling problem, I got a service warning light on since the first time it did it. It also shown immobilizer once on the first 20 km!

 

@nickkont the back wheel didn’t lock, but as I had a car just behind me gaining speed and the bike loses speed he had to brake hard…

 

I meant if it stalled when you pulled the clutch.
I forgot to mention that I changed the battery to Noco nlp14 as other guy mentioned. I don’t believe this was the issue but you never know.
If you google “stalling engine when pulling clutch at idle “ you are going to see a lot of different bikes and manufactures that have the same problem. It’s not ktm/husky specific.
They share same electronics .. (ecu, sensors etc)

I still believe its a calibration/setup one.

 

Good morning!
So after making 2.500km after changing all the parts my motorcycle it has the exact same problems, and when returning home it shuts down at 140Km/h in the left lane of the highway with one car being right behind me, this was the border line for me, as soon as I got home I took my motorcycle to the dealer and I talked to them because I have zero confidence on it now, so unfortunately I’m not updating my case anymore because I returned it for good and I’m changing motorcycle.
I hope you guys can solve the problems with yours bikes, but I bought my bike to have fun and not to put my life in danger just because Husqvarna/KTM knows there’s a problem with this bikes and do nothing about it. For sure this two brands are stripped from my list.
I returned my bike with 5.100km.

Ride safe ✌🏼

 

That’s unfortunate man. I know it’s frustrating.
You pulled the clutch at 140kmh?
I can give my authorized service contact if your dealer wants to contact him..
He said that he followed exact ktm (factory) instructions.. and never stalled again.
Don’t know if he missed something or a minor thing..
Anyway, safe rides and good luck with a newer one.

 

Update on my situation:

After changing fuel pump, injectors and fuel pipe that were very dirty with a brown gunk at 2.500Km, and after almost two fuel tanks ( 500km ) the bike is still turning off and showing the red warnings on the TFT, I still didn’t call the dealer because he said to me that I need to make some Kms to clean the circuit. Next week I’ll be doing a 1.500Km trip so after I come back it’s the perfect time to visit the dealership again. The first fuel tank was with 95 octane and this one I’m running with 98 octane. I think the bike is working better with this fuel but already turned off today while riding, shifting down from 3rd to 2nd as usual.
I’m also considering adding some kind of cleaner to the fuel, but didn’t talk with the mechanic yet to see if I should do it or not…

I’ll keep you updated when I have more news on this matter.

Ride safe ✌🏽

 

Update: I went to the mechanic to reset the ECU but that was the first solution he tried, so I'm still waiting for the parts he asked for under warranty (fuel pump, injectors and fuel pipe). According to him, this set comes already assembled from the factory that supplies them, and he's already caught them with a lot of dirt on them, and once they're assembled in the engine and put into operation, the rest of the line gets dirty and this happens.

I'm going to wait for the warranty material to arrive and be assembled so that I can do a few kilometers and then report back here.

 

Update: I went to the mechanic to reset the ECU but that was the first solution he tried, so I'm still waiting for the parts he asked for under warranty (fuel pump, injectors and fuel pipe). According to him, this set comes already assembled from the factory that supplies them, and he's already caught them with a lot of dirt on them, and once they're assembled in the engine and put into operation, the rest of the line gets dirty and this happens.

I'm going to wait for the warranty material to arrive and be assembled so that I can do a few kilometers and then report back here.

Did you do the 15 min idle reset ?

 

I had exactly the same problem 15 days ago on my Norden which had just reached 9000 km and the dealer could not find the origin of the fault 😞

 

I have this exact same problem with my Norden expedition 2024 with 1.500kms. Already take it to the dealership twice but the problem is still there. Now they ordered the fuel pump, fuel injector and fuel pipe from warranty and I’m waiting them to arrive to change them to see if it makes any difference.

 

Talked with my authorized service guy and he told me that he did a full ecu reset . Then you need to leave it 15min (no less) idle when cold (no touching the throttle).
He told me that this happened because it had adapted wrong values when was first operated or something didn’t went good at initial run up. (Another dealer)

After this ecu and idle reset, works great, never occurred again. (1500+ kms)
Try it first before doing annything else.

 

Update: I did went as I mentioned in a good authorised technician. He followed exact manufacturer's guideline including ECU reset/ update, sensors check etc.
Took it back.. bike sounds bassier and better..
It stalled again after 50-60 kms, he told me to do the 15 min idle reset and it doesn't matter if it happened once..
And now, after 1000km bike works good with no stalls. I think the best answer for these kind of problems is to find a good mechanic.

 

Update: I did went as I mentioned in a good authorised technician. He followed exact manufacturer's guideline including ECU reset/ update, sensors check etc. Took it back.. bike sounds bassier and better.. It stalled again after 50-60 kms, he told me to do the 15 min idle reset and it doesn't matter if it happened once.. And now, after 1000km bike works good with no stalls. I think the best answer for these kind of problems is to find a good mechanic.

What is the 15 min idle reset?

 

This might be a tad late but i have experienced the same problem with my 2023 expedition. I had a faulty clutch switch which also caused my cruise control to not work.
They have replaced the switch 3000 km's ago and since then I haven't experienced the problem anymore.

 

I sent the bike to an authorized technician with pretty good reviews. He checked everything and did a reset to ecu and followed exact manufacturer’s instructions. (I will ask exactly what he did)
He said is working fine . He also drove it a lot to check.
I will get it back this week and I ll keep you noted if problem solved.