Rottwieller has a high fender kit due in next month, it comes with the shock covers all in black for $100. The black OEM 890 shock covers are $41 each, I know because I want to change to black.Has anyone mounted a "High Fender " ? I'm wondering how it does on the highway, not sure it it will flex and wobble at speed. AOMC offers the black KTM 890 fender kit. Any downside?
Looks like the mounting is different for the high fender kit shock covers.Rottwieller has a high fender kit due in next month, it comes with the shock covers all in black for $100. The black OEM 890 shock covers are $41 each, I know because I want to change to black.
Thanks for that excellent info!OK this may be a bit of over information, but I am just watching adventure bike stuff on youtube anyway.
High Fender on the 901..... It is piss easy as we say downunder, I bought an Acerbis fender for $50 that fits any late model Husky, but lets just say a 2021 501, I got it in black to match the Norden, was considering white, and even a hi-vis colour ("color" for you Yanks) to match the Norden hi-vis stripe, but i liked the black one best. And yes it is rock solid on highways and dirtways.
The lower fender separates from the fork protectors easy, you reuse the bottom bolt that holds fork protectors onto the top of the callipers, just put in some stainless washers, which I suppose I will get around to when I remember.
As for the "High Fender", remove the brake line bracket under the bottom triple clamp, you will not be using this anymore. This is where the slightly tricky part comes in, but if you have a hot knife as pictured, it will be quite easy. Some of you may ask what the hell is a hot knife? Well it is primarily a rope cutting device, see here: Amazon.com : hot knife
The brake line for the left calliper feeds off a "T" piece which you will see under the bottom triple clamp next to right shock. I don't advise trying to manipulate this in order to fit the fender, because it is pretty critical that this T piece remains sealed and tight as is... if having working front brakes is of any importance to you. I am not even sure you can adjust it, but I didn't bother going down that road, as using my hot knife and melting a tiny part of the plastic fender was a far better option, IMHO ( In My Humble Opinion ).
As far as extra hardware, only needed 4 new bolts. For the top bolts I used M6 socket head bolts x 20mm long (either button head or socket head is ok, I just used socket head because the socket the hex key goes into, is a bit deeper then a button head) and Acerbis supplied 4 washers with the fender, so make sure to use them. The bolts under the fender, I used M6 hex head 20mm.
Now I used socket heads for the top bolts because it is easier for me, as I have a long shaft Snap-On screwdriver with a 5mm hex piece in it, don't have to remove any fairing to tighten bolt.
Another debate is whether to use stainless bolts or nickel plated steel bolts, with consideration to dis-similar metals. A stainless bolt into an aluminium (aluminum) triple clamp..... well yes Stainless and alloy don't like each other, look up cathodic corrosion. But you can use tef gel or something similar, I am in the marine industry, so deal with corrosion problems all the time, but in this case, I think we are splitting hairs. I didn't bother with tef gel, just screwed it in tight, but suit yourselves.
So the process of fitting the fender involves a little bit of back and forth. Once you have the brake line bracket removed, when you place the fender up to the triple clamp, no use of bolts just yet, you will see it cannot get high enough, that "T" piece gets in the way. All you need to do is mark it roughly where you think it will make contact, and get the hot knife and get it red hot, and melt a small groove where the T piece is marked, kind of like speeding butter on toast, you want to use that same action. But remember, we are only talking about a small groove about the size of you pinky. And it only needs to be a few millimetres deep.... ie... fuck all deep. It is on the corner of the fender, no need to penetrate through, as you can see from the underside of mine, there is no hole. I can feel a slight bump if I run my finger on the underside of the fender, but only because I know it is there. I mean there is basically no bump, thats how little you have to melt with the hot knife. And if you are a democrat, make sure you breath in those fumes, great for your health.
Did someone say "I'll just use a heat gun"..... My advice is don't. You only want to melt a very small area, and heat gun (or hair dryer for you girls) will actually deform a much bigger area, then the bolt holes won't line up, the whole thing could catch fire.
Just a note, it is a perfect fit, not a sloppy fit, that is why it is rock solid, but be careful screwing in those bolts, don't cross thread the triple clamps. I put the underside bolts in first, don't forget the washers, then I pushed the fender up to put in the top bolts. I actually used a small jack on top of the wheel and under the fender, bugger all pressure required, and jacked it up, bit by bit until i could see the top bolt holes line up through the fender holes. Otherwise get someone else to pull the fender up, because its a bit hard lining up those holes, as you do not want to force it in and risk a cross thread, that's just another pain in the butt. Maybe loosen off the underside bolts a bit if need be. Remember, this fender is taking the place of the brake line bracket as well. But even better because it is plastic and not metal, nothing sharp for the brake lines to rub on.
Anyway I think I am making a mountain out of a mole hill, I will ad some pics incase it helps.
I am so keen to come over and do all those BDR's you guys have. Mind you I do have a big country here that needs a lot of exploring.... biggest island in the world motherfuckers!!!! Hopefully we don't become an island state of China..... shit.
Kidding about the Democrat joke, all politicians are basically a joke.
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