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First oil change upper limit, mileage wise?

367 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  johnbaker
Folks,

Receiving my Expedition today. I use my motos for work as a photographer and will be going to a job on Tuesday, ~ 240 miles from home. As it will be difficult/impossible to not ride it at least a hundred miles before I depart, do I need to do the oil service while on the road, or could I do it in the range of 600-700 miles?

Thanks for any thoughtful and well considered advice,
Keiser
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Scheduled first oil change is 620 miles. Congrats on getting your bike. When you get a chance download the Husky app for your bike. It’ll have the full owners manual with it so you can have it with you at all times.
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Scheduled first oil change is 620 miles. Congrats on getting your bike. When you get a chance download the Husky app for your bike. It’ll have the full owners manual with it so you can have it with you at all times. View attachment 2400
Yeah, somehow I got it in my head that it was @ 500 miles. Think I’ll be okay. Thanks for the info. Dealer gave me a replacement oil filter and I bought the oil, so will be ready to go when the day comes next week.

Very pleased to have found this helpful group of Norden enthusiasts.

-Keiser
Folks,

Receiving my Expedition today. I use my motos for work as a photographer and will be going to a job on Tuesday, ~ 240 miles from home. As it will be difficult/impossible to not ride it at least a hundred miles before I depart, do I need to do the oil service while on the road, or could I do it in the range of 600-700 miles?

Thanks for any thoughtful and well considered advice,
Keiser
You can’t change oil too often. The only problems with changing oil too often is cost and obviously the extra waste and impact on the environment if we all change oil too often. But you’ll be fine riding 700 miles before changing. It’s synthetic, so the ‘oil’ will still be good anyway. You’re changing it because it could possibly load up with ‘things’ you don’t want circulating through your new engine. For instance, you’ll likely find small metal flakes in the oil if you do it yourself. That’s the sharp edges of the new parts. And metal almost always sinks to the bottom of your oil pan where it won’t be recirculated, or the flakes and other ‘things’ get caught by your filters. I’d feel uneasy riding a 1000 or more, but you’re ok to ride 6-700.
You can’t change oil too often. The only problems with changing oil too often is cost and obviously the extra waste and impact on the environment if we all change oil too often. But you’ll be fine riding 700 miles before changing. It’s synthetic, so the ‘oil’ will still be good anyway. You’re changing it because it could possibly load up with ‘things’ you don’t want circulating through your new engine. For instance, you’ll likely find small metal flakes in the oil if you do it yourself. That’s the sharp edges of the new parts. And metal almost always sinks to the bottom of your oil pan where it won’t be recirculated, or the flakes and other ‘things’ get caught by your filters. I’d feel uneasy riding a 1000 or more, but you’re ok to ride 6-700.
Very comforting. Thinking I will take that detour through Carrizo Plains after all. should put me home right at 675 +/-
This is my first new moto, previous three were well passed the break-in period.
Thanks,
Keiser
You can’t change oil too often. The only problems with changing oil too often is cost and obviously the extra waste and impact on the environment if we all change oil too often. But you’ll be fine riding 700 miles before changing. It’s synthetic, so the ‘oil’ will still be good anyway. You’re changing it because it could possibly load up with ‘things’ you don’t want circulating through your new engine. For instance, you’ll likely find small metal flakes in the oil if you do it yourself. That’s the sharp edges of the new parts. And metal almost always sinks to the bottom of your oil pan where it won’t be recirculated, or the flakes and other ‘things’ get caught by your filters. I’d feel uneasy riding a 1000 or more, but you’re ok to ride 6-700.
That's not correct, It is "break in" oil and it's mineral based, NOT synthetic. It gets synthetic after the break in period. The dealer specifically warned me that it's not ok to go much past the 620mi break in, as in don't go to 1000.

I think you'll be perfectly fine if you went to ~700 but for me, past that would be pushing it. No way to change it on the road? If you were careful I bet you could drain it using a funnel and deposit the old oil to any auto parts store.
That's not correct, It is "break in" oil and it's mineral based, NOT synthetic. It gets synthetic after the break in period. The dealer specifically warned me that it's not ok to go much past the 620mi break in, as in don't go to 1000.

I think you'll be perfectly fine if you went to ~700 but for me, past that would be pushing it. No way to change it on the road? If you were careful I bet you could drain it using a funnel and deposit the old oil to any auto parts store.
That’s possibly true. My dealer and others have proved themselves to not be dependable regarding some other things, but I was specifically told that my Husqvarna came with synthetic, and that’s also what I’ve been told regarding my last GSA and Triumph. I would err on the side of caution though. There are all sorts of ‘sky is falling’ warnings out there, and some are valid. I’ve been turning wrenches and riding for a long time, and I happen to be fortunate enough to have an Exxon lubricant chemist in the family. Your bike is not going to suffer permanent damage if you exceed 620 miles by 2 or 3 hundred miles. Even mineral oil has a far longer effective life than that. It’s the metal shavings that could be floating around (but likely fall to the bottom of your pan) that cause damage. No one wants crap circulating through the engine, but really it’s the metal shavings that most likely gather in the bottom of your pan and filters. But I always try to meet the 600 mile requirement should anything fail and ‘the corporation’ use it against you. Chances of that are slim though.
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Certainly not trying to start an oil war, I could be wrong also but I've heard this now from 3 techs from different dealerships, Husky/KTM could be lying to them to scare folks and sell more oil.

Even Rottweiler says to dump the stock oil at 0mi and use their preferred mineral break in oil. They only run it for little bit then switch to synthetic.


I do agree that running 100 miles over the first change likely won't hurt anything.
I agree. I’d do my darnedest to change it as near the 600 miles as I could be it mineral or syn. Just wouldn’t take the chance either with the crap floating around or with the warranty. I would suggest that if you do it yourself, use a good quality 6-point socket for removing the plugs, and anti-seize when re-installing. The dealership did my initial oil change. I started to do the second change this last spring. Both oil plugs were seized. My dealership had to replace the pan. They and Husky did it under warranty. Through this I learned that this is rather common with this engine. My dealership told me it’s from torquing the plugs with oil wet threads. Perhaps that’s true, but they used anti-seize when they reinstalled the new plugs into the new pan, and I’ll do same from now on.
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